I have resorted to using box files to store gear. All packed to the gunwales.
Also, not shown: 2 fridges, 4 dry boxes, 4 cupboards, 1 steamer trunk, three safes and a big pelican case
The golden rule of collecting is Never show it all at once or the men in white coats will come.
My latest article “The Unsung Heroes of 35mm Photography – Part III (Manual Focus SLR Lenses) by Dan K" has been published on JapanCameraHunter.com.
In it, I discuss my philosophy and strategy for building a kit of cheap lenses that perform like top-dollar systems, review the main SLR lens systems and make recommendations on great lenses costing upto $100 each.
Canon 50mm 1:1.4 LTM - which is the correct hood? S-50 or T-50-2
Canon High Volume Shooter
This is the kind of rig a pro photographer would use for photographing a year-book. The grip can’t be mounted at the same time as the bulk film back, which took rolls sufficient for 250 short and was loaded in a dark room.
Canon F1 + Film Chamber 250 + Motor Drive MF + Grip MF + FD 50mm 1:1.8.
It would usually be used with a studio strobe or two with umbrella reflectors.
Leica R lenses on Sony A7R.
I’ve been accumulating these as the prices have risen, or else I wouldn’t be able to afford to do so later. Currently the system comprises mostly portrait lenses.
Summicron-R 1:2/35Summilux-R 1:1.4/80Elmarit-R 1:2.8/90 IElmarit-R 1:2.8/90 II (on evaluation)APO-Macro-Elmarit-R 1:2.8/100Elmarit-R 1:2.8/180
I usually pair them with an R4/R6/R6.2, but the longer lenses would better balance on an R8. Here I’m using a Sony A7R with a no-brand adaptor.
"The rifle is the first weapon you learn how to use, because it lets you keep your distance from the client. The closer you get to being a pro, the closer you can get to the client. The knife, for example, is the last thing you learn" - Leon, The Professional
A rabbit is not just for Easter - they also make great casseroles.
Street photography, Shamshuipo
I’ve been comparing various options to shoot using the Nikon S system. Here we have: a Nikon S3 2000 Ltd chrome, SP classic chrome, SP 2005 Ltd black paint, and a Bessa R2S.
SP classic - This has the best focus bearings, build quality is very good… better than a Contax RF, similar to a Canon 7. However, the lever advance feels flimsy and sharp. The RF patch is not as bright and hard to focus in low light; in fact it’s the worst viewfinder of the bunch. The same applies to most 60’s Nikon rangefinders as the filvered RF mirror has not aged as well as the Leica or Canon prisms. The rangefinder window only covers a 50mm angle of view and the 35mm viewfinder is inferior to the Nikon 35Ti compact camera.
SP 2005 - Every bit as good as the original (except the focus bearings, which are good, but not slick like a classic Nikon). Better advance lever. Better RF patch. Everything feels newer, cleaner and just like an SP classic would have been like as it left the factory.
S3 2000 - Lovely build like the SP, viewfinder is on a par with a Canon P, same 1:1 magnification and 35mm angle of view, same flare problem.
Bessa R2S - High quality plastic body, but it’s still plastic. Finder reminds me of my Leica M4, but has the smallest effective base length of the assembled cameras, so it’s not for long lenses, fast glass, or close up portraits. It has a built in meter, which is an advantage. It’s not really much louder than a Nikon shutter, but a lot louder than a Leica.
They’re all great cameras. If having a built-in meter that is visible in the finder is a big deal, the R2S is the only choice. However, it’s hard to find and surprisingly expensive, so a classic Nikon might be the most financial sensible choice. If you use 35mm lenses primarily, the S3 2000 is the best. I marginally prefer the SP 2005 for 50mm lenses.
The first one I’d sell is the SP classic and the last would be the SP 2005.
Cat photo! Relaxing evening